-Day 9-
I spent some time absorbing and admiring sharp design and clever billboard advertising in both Rio and Sao Paulo, including a particularly good billboard on Ipanema beach that sprayed sunscreen when you walked by. It just goes to show that exceptional creative ideas really shine through when they’re able to communicate to just about anyone (though any copywriting prowess was totally lost on me!)
If anything, what I then saw only amplified the contrast in design, signage and advertising anywhere outside the cities. Ok, ten years of graphic design in one of the greatest cities in the world may have left me a little saturated, if not spoilt. However, I can now say I’ve seen crime in Brazil. Crime against my eyes.
Now I’m not saying I’ve never seen design monstrosities in London or New York,there have been plenty, but I’ve just never seen so many consistent offences in a row on one 12 hour bus journey!* And beyond the common crimes committed in Comic Sans around the world. I also have some queries over the ‘no smoking’ symbol over here. But I subsequently read a great article by a Chilean typographer called Daniel Hernández who has restored my faith, though it seems it might be some time, if not forever, before this typo love spreads to the provinces.
Anyway, our day actually started by opening our eyes to some offensive lime green curtains in our hostel. With a heavy backpack and a Brahma hangover, we trudged through the Sao Paulo drizzle to the bus terminal. It felt a bit like home. Drizzle quickly developed into a torrential downpour as we set off.
Top deck of bus, big reclining seats, free ‘goodie box’ of treats as we stepped on board - good start. But what do you do for 12 hours on a bus? As with most things, Ian and I came prepared. Eat. Read a bit of Lonely planet guide. Eat. Game of travel scrabble, Ian wins by 18 points, he is smug. Drink. Wee in gross bus toilet. Listen to travel podcast about traveling by bus in South America. Eat. Speculate about boy in front, is he albino or just ridiculously blonde? Drink. Stare out of window at bad advertising spoiling view of luscious mountains & banana plantations for 3 hours. Write blog, can’t read because it makes me feel sick. Wolf down new discovery of double chocolate wafer biscuits. Feel better. Get excited about VIP tickets to Summer Soul Festival tomorrow! Still hours to go hmmmm. And we have no idea what to do or where to go when we arrive in Florianopolis at midnight. Brilliant.
- By Cass
* Apologies for lack of photographic proof and examples - the bus was moving too fast & camera wasn’t accessible!
-Day 8-
The grey overcast morning light and torrential rain was an unwelcome eye opener in South America’s largest metropolis; at 4:30 am, few bus terminals in the world would claim to entreat you to explore their city. However, after soaking up the tropical heat and lush natural surroundings of Ilha Grande and Paraty, Sao Paulo’s urban sprawl, combined with a groggy head, felt like a Monday morning in the office following a week in the sun. As with London, there are infinite reasons why over 20 million Paulistenos call the city their home and divert their attention from the inclement weather. As Brazil’s work horse it has shopping malls to rival New York and apparently a strong art, design and cultural scene. U fortunately though, on Cass and my 1 day pitstop here enroute to Florianopolis, we had a tight schedule.
We were very thankful to escape the rain, buzz through the somewhat shady entrance gate and catch a few extra hours sleep in the excellent LuneTime hostel. Clean,modern and using its namesake as a keynote for its furnishings - though perhaps lime curtains was a mistake. After migrating from sofa to dorm room and finally private double, we hit the now drizzly lunchtime streets.
On initial inspection, Sampa (the colloquial name) feels a fairly functional city with limited charm downtown, but strolling through the Jardin district we spotted orchids growing natively on the pavement trees, softening the shuttered fortresses of the surrounding apartments. Our mission was to find the Havaianas concept store. After navigating the Rodeo Drive-esque boutiques, complete with valet parking for even coffee shops, we arrived to a spectrum of flipflops in every shade, but sadly not every size. My size 11 is popular, so instead I took advantage of the custom service and made my own in “baby blue” and “chocolate brown” - for roughly £8, our first Brazilian bargain. Cass opted for a slim strapped bronze pair, which we’re bizarrely more expensive, but as the originals are practically indestructible, I suppose they have to differentiate somehow.
Following a delicious coffee and eclair, and after making use of the excellent tube system with its wide carriages and air conditioning (TFL take note) we did a quick turnaround from the hostel and headed out to meet Cass’ ex House of Lords colleagues for dinner at Esquisito. Eliana and Alessandra had told us to catch-up with them if we hit Sampa, as well as stressed how guarded we should be against crime; although after surviving Rio unscathed we felt relatively safe. With a hearty steak and a side of Bolhino Carne Seca ( dried beef steak balls - tastier than it sounds) and washed down with the obligatory Caipaharina, Alessandra’s boyfriend whisked us on a driving tour of the city in search of a busy bar to enjoy a few late cervezas. The guys were incredibly hospitable and treated us all night, rounding up a generous introduction to a long day in Sampa.
- By Ian
